Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers
Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you. As you know, we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. master crochets, amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi lama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi rabbit, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi unicorn, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi unicorn , amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more…

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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Scarecrow Girl Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;


ch = chain
sc = single crochet stitch
hdc = half double crochet stitch
inc = single crochet increase (make 2 sc
into 1 stitch)
dec = single crochet decrease (2 sc together
but I prefer to use the invisible decrease
technique which is single crocheting 2
stitches together through the front loops)
slst = slip stitch
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
BLO = single crochet in back loops only
FLO = single crochet in front loops only

*= repeat instructions around
rnd(s) = round(s)
F/O = fasten off
[ ] = total number of stitches you should
have for the round or row
cc = color change


2.00 mm crochet hook
DK or Worsted weight yarn in a
variety of colors
See the “Before you begin…” section for exact yarn
yarn needle
sewing pins
2 – 6mm safety eyes
stitch marker or extra piece of yarn
soft stuffing
fabric glue
blush, oil pastel or light pink fabric marker
pipe cleaner/chenille stem
in color of choice

Before you begin…
This doll is crocheted in the round from the feet to the head as one piece, and the
arms are joined. Try to crochet tightly and keep the same gauge throughout the
doll. Sara is about 11” tall.
To create Sara, I used Paintbox Cotton DK yarn in Light Caramel (skin color),
Midnight Blue (overalls), Vintage Pink (shirt, hair ties and patch detail on
overalls), Mustard Yellow (hair), Pistachio Green (socks and hat detail), Melon
Sorbet (nose), Coffee Bean (hat), Granite Grey (boots, overall buttons, patch
stitching), Pure Black (crow and mouth detail), and Paper White (crow’s eyes). I
also used Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Thread in Black to embroider Sara’s smile.
You are welcome to use any size/color yarn just adjust your hook accordingly and
read any notes or tips for help! If you use a larger yarn and hook size you will need
to use larger safety eyes as well.
How to do a clean F/O…
I use this for the arms and most color changes, if I don’t specify to use this type of
F/O just use a normal F/O. You don’t have to use this technique I just prefer to use
it so that there are not any bumps and it makes for a smoother color change.

R1: magic circle [6]
R2: (sc 1, inc)* [9]
R3-4: sc around [9] (2 rnds)
R5: sc 4, dc 4 in same st, sc 4[12]
R6: sc 3, dec, sc 3, dec 2x [9]
R7-8: sc around [9] (2 rnds)
Stuff hand lightly
R9: dec 1x, sc around [8]
Stuff the wrists lightly but
leave the rest of the arm unstuffed
R10-27: sc around [8] (18 rnds)
Use a clean F/O for both arms
TIP: You do not need to leave a
long tail for sewing, the arms will
be crocheted to the body later. See
pictures on page#3 for how to do a
clean F/O.
Use a 2.00mm hook and Light Caramel yarn

Legs Make 2
Use a 2.00mm hook and start with Pistachio Green yarn
R1: magic circle [6]
R2: inc around [12]
R3: (sc 1, inc)* [18]
R4: sc around [18]
R5: (BLO) sc around [18]
R6: sc around [18]
R7: sc 6, dec 3x, sc 6 [15]
R8: sc 5, dec 3x, sc 4 [12]
R9: sc 4, dec 2x, sc 4 [10]
Stuff foot – make sure to stuff leg as you crochet about every 5 or so rows.

Legs Continued…
R10-24: sc around [10] (15 rnds)
Clean F/O
R25: (BLO) join with Light Caramel yarn into the back loop of the st where you
ended the last round, ch 1 & then sc into the same st you chained from, sc 9 sts
around [10]

TIP: You will have to sc into the 1st st of R25 – NOT into the ch 1 but the sc you
made in the same st to begin R26, see photos below.
R26-40: sc around [10] (15 rnds)
Before finishing round 40 on the 2nd leg change color to Paper White (see
last 2 pictures below), now continue onto the body section…
Clean F/O the 1st leg do not F/O the 2nd leg.


Make sure feet are facing away from
you before you ch 2 and join, you will be
continuing from the legs in the white color
R1: Ch 2, join to leg with sc, sc 9 around
(for a total of 10 sc + 2 ch), sc in back of
ch 2, 10 sc [24]
R2-4: sc around [24] (3 rnds)
R5: (sc 10, dec)* [22]
R6: sc around [22]
cc to Light Caramel yarn
R7-8: sc around [22] (2 rnds)
R9: dec, sc 4, dec, sc 7, dec, sc 3, dec [18]
R10: (sc 7, dec)* [16]
R11-17: sc around [16] (7 rnds)

Body Continued…

R18: join arm by sc 8, sc 8 along back, join
2nd arm sc 8, sc 8 on front of body [32]
TIP: Make sure thumbs are pointing in the
correct direction!

R19: (sc 2, dec)* [24]
R20: (sc 2, dec)* [18]
R21: (sc 1, dec)* [12]
R22: (sc 1, dec)* [8]
R23: sc around [8]
Do not F/O and continue onto the
head instructions…


TIP: Be sure to mark your rounds with
a piece of yarn from R8-16, it will make
placing the eyes easier!

R1: sc around [8]
R2: inc around [16]
Stuff neck very firmly
R3: (sc 1, inc)* [24]
R4: (sc 2, inc)* [32]
R5: (sc 3, inc)* [40]
R6: (sc 4, inc)* [48]
R7: (sc 5, inc)* [56]
R8-16: sc around [56] (9 rnds)
-Insert safety eyes between row
11 & 12 with 9 sc in between, it is also
time to embroider the nose (melon sorbet
yarn) and mouth (Aunt Lydia’s Crochet
Thread in black) – see pictures below.

Head Continued…

R17: (sc 5, dec)* [48]
R18-19: sc around [48] (2 rnds)
R20: (sc 4, dec)* [40]
Start stuffing
R21: (sc 3, dec)* [32]
R22: (sc 2, dec)* [24]
R23: (sc 1, dec)* [16]
Stuff more
R24: dec 8x [8]
Finish stuffing
R25: dec 3x [5]
F/O and weave in ends to
close hole.



To Start – ch 27 and sc into 1st ch you made to form a ring
R1-3: sc around [27] (3 rnds)
R3-6: sc around [27] (4 rnds)
R4: (sc 7, dec)* [24]
R5-12: sc around [24] (8 rnds)
R13: sc 4, ch 6 & sk 6 sts, sc 6, ch 6 & sk 6 sts, sc 2 [24]
R14: sc around [24]


R1: join with ch 1 under arm (like in pictures) then sc in same st as the
ch 1 you just made (ch 1 does NOT count as a st), inc in the next st,
(sc 1, inc)* repeat around 5x [18]
R2-4: sc around [18] (4 rnds)
R5: (sc 1, dec)* [12]
Clean F/O and repeat for 2nd sleeve


TIP: The overalls are made similar to how we join the legs to make the body. There
are pictures for help. Also if you would like to make pants instead of shorts just repeat
R2 until desired length then follow the rest of the instructions to join.

R1: ch 15, sc into the 1st ch you made to form a ring, sc 14 around [15]

R2-8: sc around [15] (7 rnds)
Clean F/O the 1st overall leg, repeat R1-8 but do not F/O the 2nd overall leg

  • you will join the 2nd leg to the 1st leg you made to create the overalls.
    R9: ch 1 and join with a sc to the 1st leg anywhere, sc 14 sts around, sc
    into the back of the ch 1, sc 15 sts around [32]

R10-18: sc around [32] (9 rnds)
The overalls are now worked in rows instead of rounds
19: sc 24 sts and stop, ch 1 & turn [24]
20: sc 10 sts, ch 1 & turn [10]
21: sc 1, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 1, ch 1 & turn [8]
22: sc 1, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 1, ch 1 & turn [6]
23-24: sc 6 sts, ch 1 & turn [6] (2 rows)
25: sc 2, dec, sc 2 [5]
Place marker and slst around until you reach your place marker (see pictures
below) F/O and weave in end.

Overall Straps

1.ch 25, hdc into the 4th ch from your hook (this makes the button hole), hdc 20
sts down [21]
F/O and leave tail for sewing to the back of the overalls. Repeat step 1 to
make another strap.
Once you have made both straps turn your overalls over so that the back is
facing you. Sew your straps onto the back of your overalls leaving 5 sts in between
the straps.

Overall Buttons Make 2

R1: magic circle [4]
F/O and leave tail for sewing onto the front of the overall bib. Repeat R1 to
make a 2nd button. Sew your buttons onto the front of your overall bib like shown
in pictures below, make sure to criss-cross the back when fastening the buttons.

Overall Patch

1: ch 4, sc into the 2nd ch from your hook, sc 2 sts [3]
2-3: ch 1 & turn, sc 3 sts [3] (2 rows)
F/O and weave in end, use a contrasting color of yarn (such as the granite
grey) to sew your patch anywhere on your overalls (keep in mind we roll up the
bottoms of the overall legs), make sure to sew the patch on so that you see the
stitches like in photos below.


R1: magic circle [6]
R2: inc around [12]
R3: (sc 1, inc)* [18]
R4: (sc 2, inc)* [24]
R5: (BLO) sc around [24]
R6-8: sc around [24] (3 rnds)
R9: sc 9, dec 3x, sc 9 [21]
R10: sc 7, dec 3x, sc 8 [18]
R11: sc 7, dec 2x, sc 7 [16]
R12-13: sc around [16] (2 rnds)
R14: sc 8, (FLO) sc 8 [16]
TIP: Step 15 is worked as a short row.
Steps 15-17 are worked in rows instead of
rounds to create the lip on the top of the

15: (FLO) sc 8, stop, ch 1 & turn [8]
16: sc 16 sts around, ch 1 & turn [16]
17: hdc 1, sc 14, hdc 1 [16]
F/O and weave in end. Repeat
R1-17 to make another boot. See photos
below and on the next page for examples


R1: magic circle [3]
R2: inc, sc 2 [4]
R3: inc, sc 3 [5]
R4: inc, sc 4 [6]
R5: inc, sc 5 [7]
R6: inc, sc 6 [8]
R7: inc, sc 7 [9]
R8: inc, sc 8 [10]
R9: inc, sc 9 [11]
R10: inc, sc 10 [12]
R11: inc, sc 11 [13]
R12: inc, sc 12 [14]
R13: inc, sc 13 [15]
R14: inc, sc 14 [16]
R15: inc, sc 15 [17]
R16: inc, sc 16 [18]
R17: inc, sc 17 [19]
R18: inc, sc 18 [20]
R19: inc, sc 19 [21]
R20: inc, sc 20 [22]

R21: (inc, sc 10)* [24]
R22: (inc, sc 11)* [26]
R23: (inc, sc 12)* [28]
R24: (inc, sc 13)* [30]
R25: (inc, sc 14)* [32]
R26: (inc, sc 15)* [34]
R27: (inc, sc 16)* [36]
R28: (inc, sc 17)* [38]
R29: (inc, sc 18)* [40]
R30: (inc, sc 19)* [42]
R31: (inc, sc 20)* [44]
R32: (inc, sc 21)* [46]
R33: (inc, sc 22)* [48]
R34: (sc 3, inc)* [60]
R35-40: sc around [60] (6 rnds)
R41: (FLO) sc around [60]
R42: inc in each st around [120]
R43-48: sc around [120] (6 rnds)
F/O and weave in ends – see


I recommend using a permanent washable fabric glue (like Fabri-Tac or something similar)
to glue the hair down to the head – do NOT use tacky glue. I’ve never had a problem with
washing my dolls in the washer and dryer using Fabri-Tac (available at Joann Fabrics) as long
as you use a delicate cycle and low heat tumble (I also put mine in a pillow case). Also if you
prefer you could sew the hair onto the head rather than use glue, but it is a little more time


R1: magic circle [6]
R2: inc around [12]
TIP: Each st in the magic circle will have 2 strands coming from it – see pictures for
example. So you will have 24 strands in total to make up the hair.
1: ch 25, hdc into 3rd ch from hook, make 22 hdc down then slst into same st you
chained from [23]
2: ch 12, hdc into 3rd ch from hook, make 9 hdc down, slst into next st of the magic
circle [10]
3: ch 12, hdc into 3rd ch from hook, make 9 hdc down then slst into same st you
chained from [10]
4: ch 12, hdc into 3rd ch from hook, make 9 hdc down, slst into next st of the magic
circle [10]

5 & 6: repeat step 3 & 4
7 & 8: repeat step 3 & 4
9: repeat step 3
10: ch 25, hdc into 3rd ch from hook,
make 22 hdc down, slst into next st of the
magic circle [23]
11: ch 32, hdc into 3rd ch from hook,
make 29 hdc down then slst into same st
you chained from [30]
12: ch 32, hdc into 3rd ch from hook,
make 29 hdc down, slst into next st of the
magic circle [30]
13 & 14: repeat step 11 & 12
15 & 16: repeat step 11 & 12
17 & 18: repeat step 11 & 12
19 & 20: repeat step 11 & 12
21 & 22: repeat step 11 & 12
23 & 24: repeat step 11 & 12
At the end of step 24 slst into the
1st st. F/O and weave in end, you do not
need to leave a tail for sewing since we
will be gluing the hair.

Hair Assembly

*After you pin the hair down unpin one strand at a time, glue and repeat! Be
sure to use a glue that is permanent and washable like Fabri-Tac not tacky glue! You
may have some overlap on the hair which is fine.
*Make sure not to glue hair down too low on the face, pay attention to where
I put my sewing pins for where to stop applying glue at. This is so the hair doesn’t
seem too “stiff”.
*After the hair has been glued down and dried, separate the hair strands evenly
(see pictures for reference) and tie them off into pigtails with either pieces of yarn,
ribbon, or elastic hairbands.


This is completely optional but I like to use my prismacolor nupastel 286-P
for blush (I use a paintbrush to help smooth it out after I put it on), but you may use
blush, eye shadow, fabric marker, felt, or whatever you prefer to use for blush.

Congratulations! Your Doll is Ready!