Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers,Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you.
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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Pufferfish Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

Pattern abbreviations
The following abbreviations have been used in this book:
ch = chain stitch
dc = double crochet
dec = single crochet decrease
hdc = half double crochet
hdc2tog = half double crochet decrease 2 stitches into 1
inc = single crochet increase
inv dec = invisible decrease
inv sc3tog = put hook through front loops of first 2 stitches and
under both loops of third stitch, pull 1 loop through, complete as sc.
sc = single crochet
sc3tog = single crochet decrease 3 stitches into 1
slst = slip stitch
st(s) = stitches
tr = treble crochet
Crochet terminology
The patterns are all written using US crochet terms. If you are used
to working with UK terms, please note the following differences in
stitch names:

TOOLS AND MATERIALS
Yarn
The wonderful thing about amigurumi is that they can be made in any
yarn! For the projects in this book, I have used yarn from Paintbox
Yarns and Rico Designs, with the odd extra thrown in. At the start of
each project you will find a list of the exact yarn used and the number
of balls each sample took.
A thicker yarn will produce a bigger toy than the sample and will
require more yarn. If your chosen yarn is thinner than the sample the
result will be dinkier. When substituting yarns, I always compare the
length and weight of the yarn ball to the one listed in the pattern – if in
doubt it’s best to have an extra ball or you might find yourself playing
a game of yarn chicken!
While the samples are made in smooth yarns with texture added in
other ways, there are many other fibres to explore – try working with
chenille or faux fur as well as plain cotton to get a different result.
Hooks
Finding the right hook is key to a successful amigurumi project.
Luckily there are many options to try out and depending on how you
hold it in your hand some will be more comfortable than others. I hold
my hook like a pen and always use Clover Soft Touch hooks.
Tension (gauge)
To find out if your hook size is right for your yarn try making a small
tension swatch (see Tension swatch). For toys, the aim is to create a
dense, but not stiff, fabric with no gaps between stitches for stuffing
to show through. If the fabric feels too loose, try switching to a
smaller hook. If it’s too stiff and getting the hook into the next stitch is
a struggle, try going up to the next hook size.
Tension swatch
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [18]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [24]
Fasten off.
I recommend the following hook sizes in order to achieve the same
size as the samples:
DK cotton: 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Worsted wool: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
4-ply cotton held double: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
DK cotton held together with mohair: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Remember, these are just guidelines. The main aim is for you to
produce a crochet fabric that you will enjoy working with!
Other tools and materials
As well as the yarn and hook you will also need the following items.
TOY SAFETY EYES
Plain black eyes are used for most of the projects in this book, with a
size chosen that matches the proportion of each toy. But there are
many more unusual, sparkly or realistic toy eyes available online.
Embroidered eyes and sewn-on beads also work well; each element
you choose will add unique personality to your project. However, if
you are giving the toy to a small child, it’s best to stick to safety eyes
or embroidery.
TOY STUFFING
To give the toys their shape you will need to fill them with toy stuffing.
High-loft polyester stuffing is lightweight and versatile; you will find it
in your local haberdashery or online. If you prefer sticking to natural
fibres, pure wool or recycled cotton stuffing is a good alternative.
FABRIC STABILIZER
For some of the flatter details, a stabilizing insert will help the toy to
keep its shape. You can use thick wadding, felt or fabric stabilizer for
this – the key is to look for something flexible that bounces back into
shape when released.
WIRES
To help the animals hold their poses you can reinforce some parts
with wire or craft pipe cleaners (chenille stems). A coated wire, such
as 3mm (28-gauge) garden wire, works well for adding a lot of
support. Doubling up pipe cleaners adds just enough support to gently
adjust the shape.
SEWING PINS AND CLIPS
You will need to have some sewing pins handy when sewing together
the different elements of each creature. When joining larger pieces
together, sewing clips can work better than pins. Sewing clips can be
found in haberdashery shops.
TAPESTRY NEEDLE
For sewing creature parts together, choose a blunt-tipped tapestry
needle with a wide eye, so that the yarn is easy to draw through it.
The blunt tip will stop the yarn from splitting and protect the fingertips
from any prickles!
STITCH MARKERS
Marking the beginning of a round with a stitch marker can be very
helpful for keeping on track. You can use a removable stitch marker,
a safety pin, a bit of contrasting colour yarn or the yarn tail from the
start of the project.
WIRE BRUSH
An ordinary pet hairbrush is the perfect tool for making your crochet
creatures extra fluffy!

The pufferfish may not look like anything special most of the
time, but just wait until it senses danger – by taking in extra
water and air this fish can blow itself up into a giant, spiky
ball! I’m sure to other ocean inhabitants this transformation is
very intimidating, and the pufferfish safely bobs away from
any unwanted encounters, but to the human eye, this
transformation is rather comic: the tiny front fins fly up, the
eyes are full of surprise, and the mouth is wide open – it’s as
if they can’t quite believe what’s just happened!

Dimensions
12cm (5in) tall
Yarns
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (100% cotton) 125m (137yds) per 50g
(1¾oz) ball:
Orange: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Melon Sorbet (shade 417)
White: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Champagne White (shade 403)
Pink: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Blush Pink (shade 454)
Hooks
3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Other tools and materials
Pair 8mm black safety eyes
Craft pipe cleaner (chenille stem) or wire
Toy stuffing
Sewing pins
Tapestry needle

Tension (gauge)
Tension is not critical for this project, but if you want to match the
pattern shown, make a small circular swatch using the chosen yarn
and hook (see Tools and materials: Tension swatch for the swatch
pattern).
When made in DK weight cotton with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
the swatch should measure 3.5cm (1⅜in) across.

Special stitches
Back loop only (BLO): Insert the hook under the back loop only
(see Crochet techniques: Front loops/back loops).
Spike: Ch5, start 2nd ch from hook, work in the back hump (3rd
loop) of the chain, 4slst. [4]
Crab stitch (reverse single crochet): Working from left to right,
insert hook into next st, yarn over, pull through to the front of the
work, yarn over, pull through the 2 loops on hook.
Mouth
Make 1 in Pink yarn.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc 6 times. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [18]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [24]
Rounds 5–7: Sc in all 24 sts. [3 rounds]
You will need a piece of wire or a craft pipe cleaner (chenille stem)
long enough to go around the mouth shape for the next part.
Round 8: Working in BLO, and over the wire, sc in all 24 sts. (photo
1

Fasten off. Twist the ends of the wire together and trim off the
excess. Turn the mouth wrong side out and set aside. (photo 2

Body
Make 1, start in Orange yarn.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc 6 times. [12]
From the next round, spikes (see Special stitches) will be added on
some of the rounds. At the same time, each round is increased by 6
stitches. The spikes will not count in stitch totals for the rounds.
Round 3: (1sc, spike, inc in next st) 6 times. [18 + 6 spikes] (photo
3)

Round 4: (1sc, move the spike to the front of the work, 1sc, inc in
next st) 6 times. [24] (photo 4

Round 5: (3sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [30]
Round 6: (4sc, spike, inc in next st) 6 times. [36 + 6 spikes] (photo
5)

Round 7: (5sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [42]
Round 8: (6sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [48]
Round 9: (1sc, spike, 6sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [54 + 6 spikes]
Round 10: (8sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [60]
Round 11: (9sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [66]
Round 12: (5sc, spike, 5sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [72 + 6 spikes]
Rounds 13–14: Sc in all 72 sts. [2 rounds] (photo 6)

Round 15: 3sc, spike (6sc, spike) 11 times, 3sc. [72 + 12 spikes]
Rounds 16–18: Sc in all 72 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 19: 1sc, (spike, 6sc) 5 times, 12sc, (spike, 6sc) 4 times,
spike, 5sc. [72 + 10 spikes] (photo 7

Round 20: Sc in all 72 sts.
In the next round we will join in the mouth.
Round 21: 29sc, with the mouth piece wrong side out line it up with
the body, work the next set of stitches through both body and the free
front loops of Round 8 of the mouth, (photo 8) 12sc, now work on
body only, 31sc. [72] (photo 9)

The top half of the mouth is now attached.
Round 22: Change to White, 29sc, work the next set of stitches
through the front loops of the bottom half of the mouth only, (photo
10) 12sc, skip the 12 stitches along the top of the mouth and carry
on, working on the body only, 31sc. [72] (photo 11)

The mouth is now part of the body. Pinch it closed and carry on
working in White. Fasten off Orange and trap the end under the next
round to secure it.
Round 23: Sc in all 72 sts.
Round 24: 5sc, (spike, 6sc) 4 times, 18sc, (spike, 6sc) 4 times,
spike, 1sc. [72 + 9 spikes] (photo 12)

Rounds 25–27: Sc in all 72 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 28: 3sc, (spike, 6sc) 11 times, spike, 3sc. [72 +12 spikes]
Rounds 29-30: Sc in all 72 sts. [2 rounds]
Round 31: (inv dec, 5sc, spike, 5sc) 6 times. [66 + 6 spikes]
Round 32: (inv dec, 9sc) 6 times. [60]
Round 33: (inv dec, 8sc) 6 times. [54]
Round 34: (inv dec, 7sc, spike) 6 times. [48 + 6 spikes]
Round 35: (inv dec, 6sc) 6 times. [42]
Round 36: (inv dec, 5sc) 6 times. [36]
Round 37: (inv dec, 2sc, spike, 2sc) 6 times. [30 + 6 spikes]
Round 38: (inv dec, 3sc) 6 times. [24]
Round 39: (inv dec, 2sc) 6 times. [18] (photo 13)

Add lots of toy stuffing, taking care to stuff above and below the
mouth.
Round 40: (inv dec, 1sc, spike) 6 times. [12 + 3 spikes]
Round 41: Inv dec 6 times. [6]
Fasten off, leaving a tail. Thread tail through front loops with a
tapestry needle and pull tight to close. (photo 14)

Flippers
Make 2 in Orange yarn.
Ch4, start 2nd ch from hook, work in rows.
Row 1: 3sc, turn. [3]
Row 2: Ch2 (does not count as st), 2hdc in each st, turn. [6]
Row 3: Ch2, (2hdc in next st, 1hdc) 3 times, do not turn. [9]
Row 4: Ch1, 4 crab st, skip 1 st, 3 crab st, 1slst. [8]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Tail
Make 1 in Orange yarn.
Ch12, join with a slst to make a ring.
Round 1: 1sc in each ch. [12]
Round 2: (inc in next st, 5sc) 2 times. [14]
Round 3: (inc in next st, 6sc) 2 times. [16]
Round 4: (inc in next st, 7sc) 2 times. [18]
Now work in rows.
Row 5: Slst in next st, fold the piece flat and work along the top
through both layers, ch2, 2hdc in each st, turn. [18]
Row 6: Ch2, hdc in all 18 sts, do not turn. [18]
Row 7: Ch1, (skip 1 st, 1 crab st in next st) 9 times. [9]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Eyes
Make 2, start in White yarn.
Round 1: 5sc in a magic ring. [5]
Round 2: Inc 5 times. [10]
Round 3: Change to Orange, work in front loops only, sc in all 10
sts. [10]
Round 4: 3slst, 4sc, 2slst, skip last st. [9]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Final details
Take the flippers and weave the yarn tails along the edge of the
flippers, back to the starting chain. (photo 15)

Pin the flippers to the sides of the body along the colour change line –
approximately 8 stitches away from the mouth corners – and sew in
place (see Assembly techniques). (photo 16)

Take the finished tail and weave the yarn tail back to the starting
chain. (photo 17)

Add a little stuffing (photo 18) and pin the tail to the back of the
body, covering the colour jog from Round 22. Sew in place; for a
neat seam, try sewing through the front posts of the stitches (see
Assembly techniques). (photo 19)

Put the safety eyes through the eye pieces between Rounds 1 and

2. The safety eyes should be closer to the side of the crocheted eye
   with the slip stitches. (photo 20) If the eye stalk is too big make a
   hole between the rounds with a hook or the tip of some scissors

Secure the eyes with the fasteners and pin them to the front of the
body above the mouth corners. (photo 21) Sew the eyes in place
through the front loops of the last round and weave in any loose ends
to finish. (photo 22)

YOUR PUFFERFISH IS READY!