Amigurumi Chameleon Free Crochet Pattern

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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Chameleon Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

With beautiful jewel-like scales, a grumpy expression and
those famously long tongues, chameleons are charismatic
reptiles. It’s fascinating to watch them walk gingerly along a
branch and to see their eyes lock onto their prey. Their
behaviour looks more like a funky dance than the hunt of an
experienced predator! Chameleons are known for their
colour-changing ability; however, it seems this neat trick is
designed not to help them blend in with their background but
to adjust body temperature and express their emotions – the
brighter the colours the feistier they feel!

Dimensions
23cm (9in) long in 4-ply cotton held double or 16cm (6¼in) long if
made in DK weight cotton
Yarns
Paintbox Yarns Cotton 4-ply (100% cotton), 170m (186yds) per 50g
(1¾oz) ball held double:
Teal: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Sea Green (shade 21)
Mint: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Mint Green (shade 16)
Alternatively, you could make the chameleon in a speckled or
variegated yarn
Hooks
3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Other tools and materials
Pair 12mm black safety eyes
Craft pipe cleaners (chenille stems) or wire (optional)
Toy stuffing
Sewing pins
Tapestry needle
FUN FACT
Over half of all known chameleon
species live on the island of
Madagascar and the smallest
chameleon is the same size as a
matchstick head!
Tension (gauge)
Tension is not critical for this project, but if you want to match the
pattern shown here, make a small circular swatch using the chosen
yarn and hook (see Tools and materials: Tension swatch for the
swatch pattern).
When made with two strands of 4-ply weight cotton HELD DOUBLE
with a 3.5mm (US E/4) hook the swatch should measure 4cm (1⅝in)
across. When made with a single strand of 4-ply weight cotton with a
3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook the swatch should measure 3cm (1¼in)
across.
Project notes
The chameleon’s body is worked in
one piece, starting at the nose.
Holding the two yarns together
creates a speckled look all over.
You could try using scraps of
different tones of the same yarn to
get an even more varied texture.
The legs are worked from the body
and can be reinforced with wire.
The toy is finished with crab stitch
details.
Special stitches
Crab stitch (reverse single crochet): Working from the left to the
right, insert hook into next st, yarn over, pull through to the front of the
work, yarn over, pull through the 2 loops on the hook.
Eyes
Make 2 in Teal yarn held double, with a 3.5mm (US E/4) hook.
Ch6, slst into 1st st to make a ring.
Round 1: 8sc into the ring. [8]
Rounds 2–3: Sc in all 8 sts. [2 rounds]
Round 4: (1sc, inc in next st) 4 times. [12]
Round 5: (inc in next st, 2sc) 4 times. [16]
Round 6: Sc in all 16 sts. [16]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (photo 1)

Push the centre inwards and place a safety eye through the middle of
each piece, but don’t fasten them yet. (photo 2)

Head, body and tail
Make 1 in Teal and Mint yarns held together with a 3.5mm (US E/4)
hook.
Ch9, start 2nd ch from hook, work on both sides of the chain.
Round 1: 8sc along the top of the chain, turn over and work back to
the start, 8sc along the other side of the chain. [16] (photo 3)

Round 2: (inc in next st, 6sc, inc in next st) 2 times. [20]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st, 6sc, inc in next st, 1sc) 2 times. [24]
Round 4: Sc in all 24 sts. [24]
Round 5: 2sc, 8slst, 14sc. [24]
Round 6: 3sc, inc 3 times, 2sc, inc 3 times, 13sc. [30]
Round 7: 3sc, (1sc, inc in next st) 3 times, 2sc, (inc in next st, 1sc) 3
times, 13sc. [36]
Round 8: 6sc, (2sc, inc in next st) 4 times, 18sc. [40]
Round 9: 9sc, inc in next st, 10sc, inc in next st, 19sc. [42] (photo 4)

Rounds 10–15: Sc in all 42 sts. [6 rounds]
Round 16: 18sc, 3sc in next st, 23sc. [44]
Round 17: 19sc, 3sc in next st, 24sc. [46]
Round 18: 20sc, 3sc in next st, 25sc. [48]
Round 19: 21sc, 3sc in next st, 26sc. [50]
Round 20: 1sc, inv dec 3 times, 15sc, 3sc in next st, 15sc, inv dec 3
times, 6sc. [46]
Round 21: 4slst, 33sc, 9slst. [46] (photo 5)

Round 22: 17sc, inv dec, inv sc3tog, inv dec, 22sc. [42]
Round 23: 15sc, inv dec, inv sc3tog, inv dec, 20sc. [38]
Round 24: 13sc, inv dec, inv sc3tog, inv dec, 18sc. [34]
Add the safety eyes and eye pieces between Rounds 13 and 14,
towards the lower edge of the head. Secure the backs of the safety
eyes. (photo 6)

The next round marks the position of the front legs.
Round 25: 3sc, 3sc in next st, 8sc, 5slst, 8sc, 3sc in next st, 8sc.
[38]
Round 26: 4sc, 3sc in next st, 12sc, inc in next st, 10sc, 3sc in next
st, 9sc. [43]
Round 27: 3sc, skip 5sts, ch1, 22sc, skip 5sts, ch1, 8sc. [35]
(photo 7)

Rounds 28–30: Sc in all 35 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 31: 16sc, inv dec, 17sc. [34]
Round 32: 16sc, inv dec, 16sc. [33]
Round 33: 15sc, inv dec, 16sc. [32]
The next round marks the position of the back legs.
Round 34: 4sc, skip 1st, ch5, 10sc, inv dec, 9sc, skip 1st, ch5, 4sc.
[38] (photo 8)

Round 35: 5sc, sc3tog, 10sc, inv dec, 10sc, sc3tog, 6sc. [34]
Round 36: 3sc, inv dec 3 times, 7sc, inv dec, 7sc, inv dec 3 times,
3sc. [27]
Round 37: 11sc, inv dec 2 times, 11sc, inc in next st. [26]
Round 38: 10sc, inv dec 2 times, 12sc. [24]
Add toy stuffing, filling out the nose and crest. Add more stuffing as
you go.
Round 39: 3slst, 8sc, inv dec, 8sc, 3slst. [23]
Round 40: 10sc, inv dec, 11sc. [22]
Round 41: 3slst, 7sc, inv dec, 7sc, 3slst. [21]
Round 42: 9sc, inv dec, 10sc. [20] (photo 9)

Round 43: 9sc, inv dec, 9sc. [19]
Round 44: 8sc, inv sc3tog, 8sc. [17]
Round 45: 7sc, inv sc3tog, 7sc. [15]
Rounds 46–47: Sc in all 15 sts. [2 rounds]
Round 48: 6sc, inv sc3tog, 6sc. [13]
Rounds 49–50: Sc in all 13 sts. [2 rounds]
Fasten off Mint and continue with two strands of Teal, using the
strand from inside the ball as the second.
Round 51: 5sc, inv sc3tog, 5sc. [11]
Rounds 52–53: Sc in all 11 sts. [2 rounds]
Round 54: 4sc, sc3tog, 4sc. [9]
Rounds 55–56: Sc in all 9 sts. [2 rounds]
Round 57: 3sc, sc3tog, 3sc. [7]
Rounds 58–59: Sc in all 7 sts. [2 rounds]
Drop one strand of Teal and change to a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook.
Rounds 60–72: Sc in all 7 sts. [13 rounds]
Add extra rounds here if you want a longer tail!
Fasten off, leaving a tail. Insert a long craft pipe cleaner (chenille
stem) or wire into the chameleon’s tail. Thread yarn tail through front
loops with a tapestry needle and pull tight to close. Roll up the end of
the tail. (photo 10)

Stitch down the outer edge of the eyes. (photo 11)

Legs
Make 4 in Teal yarn held double with a 3.5mm (US E/4) hook.
For the front legs, join the yarn to the first of the skipped stitches. For
the back legs, join the yarn to the first of the new chains.
Round 1: 5sc along the skipped stitches/chains, 1sc into the side of
the gap, 1sc into the stitch/chain on next row, 1sc into the other side
of the gap. [8] (photo 12)

Rounds 2–4: Sc in all 8 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 5: Inv dec 2 times, 4sc. [6]
Round 6: 2slst, 1sc, inc 2 times, 1sc. [8]
Round 7: 2slst, 6sc. [8]
Rounds 8–13: Sc in all 8 sts. [6 rounds]
Round 14: (inv dec, 2sc) 2 times. [6]
Round 15: Sc in all 6 sts. [6]
Round 16: (1sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc) 2 times. [10]
Round 17: (1slst, 1sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc, 1slst) 2 times. [14]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (photo 13)

Soles
Make 4 in Mint yarn held double with a 3.5mm (US E/4) hook.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: (1sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc) 2 times. [10]
Round 3: (1slst, 1sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc, 1slst) 2 times. [14]
Fasten off and weave in the ends. (photo 14)

Jaw
Make 1 in Mint yarn held double with a 3.5mm (US E/4) hook.
Ch9, start 2nd ch from hook, work on both sides of the chain.
Round 1: 8sc along the top of the chain, turn over and work back to
the start, 8sc along the other side of the chain. [16]
Round 2: (inc in next st, 6sc, inc in next st) 2 times. [20]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st, 6sc, inc in next st, 1sc) 2 times. [24]
Round 4: 2sc, 3sc in next st, 9sc, inc in next st, 9sc, 3sc in next st,
1sc. [29]
Round 5: 3slst, 3sc in next st, 22sc, 3sc in next st, 2slst. [33]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (photo 15)

Final details
At this point you can insert some wire into the legs if you want them
to be poseable. You could twist two craft pipe cleaners (chenille
stems) together, shaping the tips into toes on one side, then feed the
rest through a bendy straw – the straw is easier to push through the
first leg and out the other side. Twist the tips on the other end and
trim off any extra wire. (photos 16 and 17)

Place a sole over the base of each leg and sew them into place.
(photo 18)

Secure the crest into a flatter shape with a short stitch near its base
using some Teal yarn. This brings the front and back a little closer
together. (photo 19)

Add a row of crab stitch down the spine to decorate. (photo 20)

Sew the jaw to the base of the head, catching the shape just under
the top loops when going around the outer edge – this will give a neat
line to the mouth edge. (photo 21)