
Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers,Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you.
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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Aardvark The Animal Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

Pattern abbreviations
The following abbreviations have been used in this book:
ch = chain stitch
dc = double crochet
dec = single crochet decrease
hdc = half double crochet
hdc2tog = half double crochet decrease 2 stitches into 1
inc = single crochet increase
inv dec = invisible decrease
inv sc3tog = put hook through front loops of first 2 stitches and
under both loops of third stitch, pull 1 loop through, complete as sc.
sc = single crochet
sc3tog = single crochet decrease 3 stitches into 1
slst = slip stitch
st(s) = stitches
tr = treble crochet
Crochet terminology
The patterns are all written using US crochet terms. If you are used
to working with UK terms, please note the following differences in
stitch names:

TOOLS AND MATERIALS
Yarn
The wonderful thing about amigurumi is that they can be made in any
yarn! For the projects in this book, I have used yarn from Paintbox
Yarns and Rico Designs, with the odd extra thrown in. At the start of
each project you will find a list of the exact yarn used and the number
of balls each sample took.
A thicker yarn will produce a bigger toy than the sample and will
require more yarn. If your chosen yarn is thinner than the sample the
result will be dinkier. When substituting yarns, I always compare the
length and weight of the yarn ball to the one listed in the pattern – if in
doubt it’s best to have an extra ball or you might find yourself playing
a game of yarn chicken!
While the samples are made in smooth yarns with texture added in
other ways, there are many other fibres to explore – try working with
chenille or faux fur as well as plain cotton to get a different result.
Hooks
Finding the right hook is key to a successful amigurumi project.
Luckily there are many options to try out and depending on how you
hold it in your hand some will be more comfortable than others. I hold
my hook like a pen and always use Clover Soft Touch hooks.
Tension (gauge)
To find out if your hook size is right for your yarn try making a small
tension swatch (see Tension swatch). For toys, the aim is to create a
dense, but not stiff, fabric with no gaps between stitches for stuffing
to show through. If the fabric feels too loose, try switching to a
smaller hook. If it’s too stiff and getting the hook into the next stitch is
a struggle, try going up to the next hook size.
Tension swatch
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [18]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [24]
Fasten off.
I recommend the following hook sizes in order to achieve the same
size as the samples:
DK cotton: 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Worsted wool: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
4-ply cotton held double: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
DK cotton held together with mohair: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Remember, these are just guidelines. The main aim is for you to
produce a crochet fabric that you will enjoy working with!
Other tools and materials
As well as the yarn and hook you will also need the following items.
TOY SAFETY EYES
Plain black eyes are used for most of the projects in this book, with a
size chosen that matches the proportion of each toy. But there are
many more unusual, sparkly or realistic toy eyes available online.
Embroidered eyes and sewn-on beads also work well; each element
you choose will add unique personality to your project. However, if
you are giving the toy to a small child, it’s best to stick to safety eyes
or embroidery.
TOY STUFFING
To give the toys their shape you will need to fill them with toy stuffing.
High-loft polyester stuffing is lightweight and versatile; you will find it
in your local haberdashery or online. If you prefer sticking to natural
fibres, pure wool or recycled cotton stuffing is a good alternative.
FABRIC STABILIZER
For some of the flatter details, a stabilizing insert will help the toy to
keep its shape. You can use thick wadding, felt or fabric stabilizer for
this – the key is to look for something flexible that bounces back into
shape when released.
WIRES
To help the animals hold their poses you can reinforce some parts
with wire or craft pipe cleaners (chenille stems). A coated wire, such
as 3mm (28-gauge) garden wire, works well for adding a lot of
support. Doubling up pipe cleaners adds just enough support to gently
adjust the shape.
SEWING PINS AND CLIPS
You will need to have some sewing pins handy when sewing together
the different elements of each creature. When joining larger pieces
together, sewing clips can work better than pins. Sewing clips can be
found in haberdashery shops.
TAPESTRY NEEDLE
For sewing creature parts together, choose a blunt-tipped tapestry
needle with a wide eye, so that the yarn is easy to draw through it.
The blunt tip will stop the yarn from splitting and protect the fingertips
from any prickles!
STITCH MARKERS
Marking the beginning of a round with a stitch marker can be very
helpful for keeping on track. You can use a removable stitch marker,
a safety pin, a bit of contrasting colour yarn or the yarn tail from the
start of the project.
WIRE BRUSH
An ordinary pet hairbrush is the perfect tool for making your crochet
creatures extra fluffy!
Aardvarks sit right at the start of the English dictionary, so it’s
only fitting that we begin with one! These unusual mammals
have remained virtually unchanged for millions of years,
making them something of a living fossil. Their powerful feet
dig out roomy burrows to hide in from the heat of the sun,
long snouts help sniff out the next termite meal and large
ears can hear any approaching predator. These nocturnal
digging machines are built for keeping armies of ants and
termites at bay; they can munch through 50,000 of the
wriggly critters every night – quite the appetite!

Dimensions
40cm (15¾in) long
Yarns
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (100% cotton) 125m (137yds) per 50g
(1¾oz) ball:
Beige: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Vanilla Cream (shade 408)
Brown: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Soft Fudge (shade 410)
Dark Brown: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Coffee Bean (shade 411)
Hooks
3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Other tools and materials
Pair 6mm black safety eyes
Small piece of thick felt or fabric stabilizer
Toy stuffing
Sewing pins
Tapestry needle

Tension (gauge)
Tension is not critical for this project, but if you want to match the
pattern shown here, make a small circular swatch using the chosen
yarn and hook (see Tools and materials: Tension swatch for the
swatch pattern).
When made in DK weight cotton with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
the swatch should measure 3.5cm (1⅜in) across.

Front loop only (FLO): Insert the hook under the front loop only
(see Crochet techniques: Front loops/back loops).
Ears
Make 2 in Beige yarn.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: (inc in next st, 2sc) 2 times. [8]
Round 3: (inc in next st, 3sc) 2 times. [10]
Round 4: (inc in next st, 4sc) 2 times. [12]
Round 5: (inc in next st, 5sc) 2 times. [14]
Round 6: (inc in next st, 6sc) 2 times. [16]
Round 7: (inc in next st, 7sc) 2 times. [18]
Round 8: (inc in next st, 8sc) 2 times. [20]
Round 9: (inc in next st, 9sc) 2 times. [22]
Rounds 10–29: Sc in all 18 sts. [20 rounds]
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. (photo 1)

Head, body and tail
Make 1, start in Brown yarn.
Round 1: 8sc in a magic ring. [8]
Round 2: Inc 8 times. [16]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 8 times. [24]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 8 times. [32]
Round 5: (3sc, inc in next st) 8 times. [40]
Round 6: Sc in all 40 sts. [40]
Round 7: Change to Beige, work in FLO, sc in all 40 sts. [40]
(photo 2)

Round 8: In both loops, sc in all 40 sts. [40]
Round 9: (inv dec, 8sc) 4 times. [36]
Round 10: (10sc, inv dec) 3 times. [33]
Round 11: (9sc, inv dec) 3 times. [30]
Round 12: (8sc, inv dec) 3 times. [27]
Round 13: Sc in all 27 sts. [27]
Round 14: (7sc, inv dec) 3 times. [24]
Rounds 15–28: Sc in all 24 sts. [14 rounds]
Round 29: 6sc, (inc in next st, 3sc) 3 times, 6sc. [27]
Round 30: 6sc, (inc in next st, 4sc) 3 times, 6sc. [30]
Round 31: 6sc, (inc in next st, 5sc) 3 times, 6sc. [33]
Round 32: 6sc, (inc in next st, 6sc) 3 times, 6sc. [36]
Round 33: 6sc, (inc in next st, 7sc) 3 times, 6sc. [39]
Round 34: 6sc, (inc in next st, 8sc) 3 times, 6sc. [42]
Round 35: Sc in all 42 sts. [42]
Round 36: 6sc, (inc in next st, 9sc) 3 times, 6sc. [45]
Round 37: Sc in all 45 sts. [45]
Round 38: 6sc, (inc in next st, 10sc) 3 times, 6sc. [48]
Rounds 39–44: Sc in all 48 sts. [6 rounds]
Round 45: 6sc, (10sc, inv dec) 3 times, 6sc. [45]
Round 46: Sc in all 45 sts. [45]
Round 47: Change to Brown, 22sc, 3sc in next st, 22sc. [47] (photo
3)

Add safety eyes between Rounds 34 and 35, checking that the
increase from the previous round is in the centre. Cut out a circle of
fabric stabilizer to the same size as the snout and place it inside the
snout. Add toy stuffing up to the eyes. (photos 4 and 5

The next section is the body, the increases and decreases will shape
the spine.
Round 48: 23sc, 3sc in next st, 23sc. [49]
Round 49: 24sc, 3sc in next st, 24sc. [51]
Round 50: 25sc, 3sc in next st, 25sc. [53]
Round 51: 26sc, 3sc in next st, 26sc. [55]
Round 52: Sc in all 55 sts. [55]
Round 53: 27sc, 3sc in next st, 27sc. [57]
Round 54: Sc in all 57 sts. [57]
Round 55: 28sc, 3sc in next st, 28sc. [59]
Round 56: Sc in all 59 sts. [59]
Round 57: 29sc, 3sc in next st, 29sc. [61]
Round 58: Sc in all 61 sts. [61]
Round 59: 30sc, 3sc in next st, 30sc. [63]
Round 60: Sc in all 63 sts. [63]
Round 61: 31sc, 3sc in next st, 31sc. [65]
Round 62: Sc in all 65 sts. [65]
Round 63: 32sc, 3sc in next st, 32sc. [67]
Rounds 64–68: Sc in all 67 sts. [5 rounds]
Round 69: 33sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 29sc. [65]
Round 70: Sc in all 65 sts. [65]
Round 71: 33sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 27sc. [63]
Round 72: Sc in all 63 sts. [63]
Round 73: 33sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 25sc. [61]
Round 74: Sc in all 61 sts. [61]
Round 75: 33sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 23sc. [59]
Round 76: Sc in all 59 sts. [59]
Round 77: 33sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 21sc. [57]
Round 78: Sc in all 57 sts. [57]
Round 79: 33sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 19sc. [55]
Round 80: Sc in all 55 sts. [55]
Round 81: 33sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 17sc. [53]
Round 82: Sc in all 53 sts. [53]
Round 83: 33sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 15sc. [51]
Round 84: Sc in all 51 sts. [51]
Round 85: 33sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 13sc. [49]
Round 86: Sc in all 49 sts. [49]
Round 87: 33sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 11sc. [47]
Round 88: 32sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 10sc. [45]
Round 89: 31sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 9sc. [43]
Round 90: 30sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 8sc. [41]
Round 91: 29sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 7sc. [39]
Round 92: 28sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 6sc. [37] (photo 6)

Add toy stuffing; top up the stuffing as you start making the tail.
Round 93: 9sc, change to Beige, 18sc, inv dec, 8sc. [36]
Round 94: 27sc, inv dec, 7sc. [35]
Round 95: 26sc, inv dec, 7sc. [34]
Round 96: 26sc, inv dec, 6sc. [33]
Round 97: 25sc, inv dec, 6sc. [32]
Round 98: 25sc, inv dec, 5sc. [31]
Round 99: 24sc, inv dec, 5sc. [30]
Round 100: 24sc, inv dec, 4sc. [29]
Round 101: 23sc, inv dec, 4sc. [28]
Round 102: 23sc, inv dec, 3sc. [27]
Round 103: 22sc, inv dec, 3sc. [26]
Round 104: 22sc, inv dec, 2sc. [25]
Round 105: 21sc, inv dec, 2sc. [24]
Round 106: 21sc, inv dec, 1sc. [23]
Round 107: 20sc, inv dec, 1sc. [22]
Round 108: 20sc, inv dec. [21]
Round 109: 19sc, inv dec. [20]
Round 110: 18sc, inv dec. [19]
Round 111: 17sc, inv dec. [18]
Round 112: 16sc, inv dec. [17]
Round 113: 15sc, inv dec. [16]
Round 114: 14sc, inv dec. [15]
Round 115: 13sc, inv dec. [14]
Round 116: 12sc, inv dec. [13]
Round 117: 11sc, inv dec. [12]
Round 118: 10sc, inv dec. [11]
Round 119: 9sc, inv dec. [10]
Round 120: 8sc, inv dec. [9]
Round 121: 7sc, inv dec. [8]
Round 122: 6sc, inv dec. [7]
Round 123: 5sc, inv dec. [6]
Round 124: Sc in all 6 sts. [6]
Fasten off, leaving a tail. Thread tail through front loops with a
tapestry needle and pull tight to close. (photo 7)

Feet
Make 4 in Dark Brown yarn.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: (1sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc) 2 times. [10]
Round 3: (2sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc) 2 times. [14]
Round 4: 3sc, 3sc in next st, 10sc. [16]
Round 5: 4sc, 3sc in next st, 11sc. [18]
Round 6: 5sc, 3sc in next st, 12sc. [20]
Round 7: 6sc, 3sc in next st, 13sc. [22]
Round 8: 7sc, 3sc in next st, 14sc. [24]
Round 9: 18sc, (inv dec, 1sc) 2 times. [22]
Round 10: 17sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec. [20]
Round 11: 17sc, sc3tog. [18]
Rounds 12–13: Sc in all 18 sts. [2 rounds]
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. (photo 8

Final details
Sew the ears to the back of the head above the eyes, curving the
base of the ears into a U-shape as you sew. (photos 9 and 10)

Add some stuffing to the feet and sew them to the body. (photos 11,
12, 13 and 14


Use Brown yarn to embroider two lines onto the tip of the snout to
finish. (photos 15 and 16)

YOUR AARDVARK IS READY!




